As you might know from my previous post, I spent the past two weeks in Blenheim, grape capital of the world it seems (vineyards stretching on forever), working to save up some money for splurging at the end of my trip. The hostel I arrived at could not have been more opposite from the Rotten Apple in Hastings; six different blocks of clean twin rooms with TVs and heating, six different kitchens, two main eating rooms, and even a locked compartment for your food and personal dinnerware. It is owned by the contracting company Hortus Inc., so reception was so organized in terms of finding people jobs.
I was offered a job two days after arriving, just working in the vineyards, but they also needed a driver for one of the vans full of Fijians. I did not realize how much time and responsibility this was, and didn't even know if I'd get paid for the extra time driving, let alone whether my US license is legal in New Zealand. Let's add that this was a clunky, jerky (that may have been due to my driving), 10 seater, mANUal van... and furthermore left handed shifting, right handed turn signals, and clockwise roundabouts. I was a little nervous..
After verbal reassurance from the company owner that as long as my license was in English it would be fine and that it's also fine that I'm only 18 (for all NZ car rentals one must be at least 21), I did not actually feel very reassured until about the third day into work. At this point the Fijians, ranging from 21-30, had told me never to be nervous around them, and had started treating me like their sister.
My experience is that the Western world's tendency towards most islanders like these (at least most of the European backpackers in NZ) is to be wary, skeptical, and for the most part avoid interaction with them. At least I know that's how I felt in Hastings working near a group of Fijians for a few days. They yell, scream, and laugh; their language is syllablicly (i think I just made that up) very different/intimidating, and most are perfect, tall giants with rock muscles.
But for the next week until they left to go home after six months, they revealed to me the softest hearts I've ever come across. Maybe I felt this way because it was my first lengthy relationship with a people and culture so different from mine, and the fact that I am a young, white, blonde haired girl most definitely played a part in their treatment of me. Most backpackers stay away because when an islander says "Hi" they automatically assume his motives; some sort of intimate relationship or material gain. I struggle with this stereotype because I don't know where their true motivation lies when they're all so damn nice all the time. What do they want? And why does that always have to be the question that pops into our minds? Why is it so suspicious when they try to make friends with, to be blunt, white people? Some women feel inwardly (and I think a little guiltily) flattered, and a lot go straight to frustrated because such abundant compliments start to feel fake.
These guys, they'd stop at the end of my row and say Uro levu (I love you), Iko set tiko (how are you/are you okay) a million times, bula (hello), etc. They all spoke English quite fluently but as soon as I showed interest in learning their language, they wouldn't stop saying the few things in Fijian that I knew how to respond to. Granted, I never knew how to respond to uro levu but they didn't mind because it was usually a smile and that's what they loved.
I'm not ashamed to say I felt pampered by all the attention. I didn't want to think about their possible deeper intentions, I listen to the immediate reservations I've been taught to think; I just wanted to have a good time and make memories so I wasn't bored out of my mind thinning grapes. This sounds naïve; of course I'm careful what I say, what information I give out, and what situations I put myself in. I would go to various events with just the Fijians and the reactions of my British friends were "I'm worried for you Lauren." Everyone has their own comfort levels, how cautious they choose to be, but the Fijians appreciated me so much because I was open to what they had to share. And I'm so glad I was; they honestly changed my perspective on living and being.
I'd go down the rows, talking to a different guy each day, and hear stories of shipwrecks they've been in, friends who have died saving them from sharks while night spear fishing, whole communities destroyed because of a hurricane. Through all this they still had such a strong connection and unceasing devotion to God, which inspired me. Saku, my closest bud, told me this was the first time in their six months they'd shared their personal stories with a backpacker like me. They were also truly interested in my life (past my age and relationship status), and I couldn't help feeling bad telling them how many cars were in my driveway at the moment, how many places I've traveled, what the universities that my friends attend are like.
They want me to visit them in Fiji one day, and maybe you think I'm crazy but you're probably not surprised that I'm seriously thinking about it. They say any visitor in Fiji, if he meets one hundred people he'll receive one hundred bulas. "It's the bula spirit, thats just how we grow up" they say. Who knows, maybe they are looking to get something out of the tourist in the end, but they'd never tell me that of course and I'm okay not knowing. I just know I made some pretty incredible and unexpected friends who'll provide free hospitality in Fiji if anyone wants to join me someday :))
And so, as a result of them leaving, my job also ended which was okay with me because I wasn't sure I wanted to stay at the hostel without their company and constant laughs.
Life here is still very easy and free flowing; I feel very lucky. I've continued on to meet up again with Sawyer, stopping briefly in Hokitika, jade country, to learn about New Zealand's most treasured stone and admire the milky blue waters at Hokitika Gorge. I'm in Fox Glacier, about to embark in two days on an adventure packed three weeks with Sawyer (and Olivia Clement for part of that time, who's spending her break with us between studying in Australia). We are bEYONd excited, having planned days of hiking, bungy jumping, horse riding, skydiving, partying, kayaking, and sightseeing amongst this beautiful wilderness until Sawyer must bid me farewell in Christchurch on May 15th :(. Stay tuned!
